How To: Sani Pass Without a Car

Sani Pass, in the southern Drakensberg mountains, is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen so far in South Africa (and trust me, it has some serious competition). Its also a great way to enter the eastern side of Lesotho, a tiny country that is well worth a visit. Only problem is, unless you’ve got your own car, or are willing to pay a high price for a tour, it’s tough to figure out just how you’re going to get through the pass. After an online search, asking others for advice, and pretty much just winging most of it, we managed to travel through the pass cheaply on public transport. Here’s how you can, too:

Sani Pass (7 of 21)

Durban is the jumping off point for most visitors to the Sani Pass. Your hostel can book you a seat on the shuttle bus, which picks you up at your door and drops you at your accommodation near the pass (usually at the Sani Lodge, which I highly recommend). Prices vary according to how many seats are filled. When we asked, it was R550, so we opted for shared taxis instead.

Shared minivan taxis (confusingly just referred to as “taxis”) don’t run directly to the pass. We took one to Pietermanizberg (1 hour, R55), then another to Undersberg (2 hours, R95), then a third to Sani Lodge (30mins, R35- this taxi continues through the pass after stopping at the lodge). The bus from Johannesburg to Durban stops at Pietermanizberg so if you want to skip Durban just get off here. The taxi stand in Durban can be hard to find, so it’s best to get a private taxi to take you there from your hostel (don’t walk around with your luggage, because Durban is [not safe]).

Shared minivan taxis leave when they’re full, so be prepared to wait a while. If you have large luggage, this will be placed on the front seats, and you’ll have to pay a portion of the price of those seats. Though sometimes the driver agreed to let us wedge our rucksacks under our feet or in the aisle instead.

Sani Pass (5 of 21)

The Sani Lodge is a wonderful assortment of dorms and rooms in a stunning surroundings. Dorm beds cost R160. A three course dinner is available for R90, or you can use the kitchen to make your own food (bring this with you as there are no shops other than a souvenir/ snack shop).

Lots of hiking trails lead from the Sani Lodge into the surrounding area. We opted for a shorter trail that took us through beautiful mountain scenery to a tiny waterfall, but longer day trips or overnight camping trips are available. Permits are needed to trek in the area, and these can be purchased at the lodge for R35 per day.

From the lodge, you must make your own way to the taxi stand, which is 3km away. We managed to flag down a car halfway there (just as our rucksacks were really weighing us down!). From the stand, some taxis will take you to the top of the pass, others will go all the way through to Mohotlong, in Lesotho. We opted for the latter, and once the van was full, headed through the pass.

The views were spectacular!

 

Lesotho (7 of 56)

Sani Pass (6 of 21)

Sani Pass (16 of 21)

The road to the top, on the South African side

The road up to the top zigzags steeply, and is unpaved, so it was slow going. At the top, we went through the South Africa border and got our stamps, then drove through a long stretch of scenic no mans’ land before reaching the Lesotho border.

Lesotho (3 of 56)

A shop at the peak of the Sani Pass

The Lesotho border is as far as many travellers go before heading back the way they came. There’s a pub here that boasts of being “the highest pub in Africa”, where you can enjoy a drink and a view, and a teeny tiny village that gives new arrivals their first glimpse into Lesotho life.

Lesotho (4 of 56)

Our first sight of a rondavel- a typical house in Lesotho and parts of South Africa

The road down into Lesotho is smooth and paved. If you are driving through the pass, I recommend going from South Africa into Lesotho, not the other way around, as going down the unpaved road must be far harder than going up.

Lesotho (6 of 56)

The paved road down into Lesotho

Once in Lesotho, we got more and more taxis, each one taking us further to Maseru. I don’t recommend this unless you have a pickup arranged, as we arrived in Maseru late at night, couldn’t find a taxi, and were stranded in a rough part of town, until we were rescued by some off-duty police officers who drove us to a hostel (Note to self: stop wandering through dangerous areas late at night with everything you own on your back).

Sani Pass (9 of 21)

8 comments on “How To: Sani Pass Without a Car”

  1. Interesting guide, it is not always easy to travel and I can imagine that it is even harder in border reagions.

    1. ailish_kc@hotmail.com says:

      It became much easier once we gave in and rented a car, that way we could go wherever we wanted without having to navigate minivan taxis 🙂

      1. That is for sure possible to understand. 🙂

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  5. Pieter says:

    Hi Ailish,

    thanks for the entry, you have cleared many doubts about this trip and I am looking forward to doing it.
    A question: where did you go after Maseru and how? Apparently there is no bus fom Maseru/Ladybrand to Joburg anymore.

    1. ailish_kc@hotmail.com says:

      Hi Pieter, glad you liked the post. We rented a car in Maseru and did a day trip in the surrounding area, which was stunning. We then got a bus to Bloemfontein. I’m very surprised there’s no bus to Johannesburg, if that’s the case you’ll probably have to go via Bloemfontein. Enjoy your time in Lesotho and South Africa!

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